Great River State Trail: La Crosse to Midway
While only 6 miles, the first section of the Great River State Trail spans a variety of environments. It begins in a wooded part of the city of La Crosse before passing through urban Onalaska. Then it moves into a more natural setting as it follows the confluence of the Black and Mississippi Rivers, through a forested corridor and by restored prairies. After 6 miles, the trail arrives at the small community of Midway.
The southern trailhead in La Crosse joins two separate paths. The La Crosse River State Trail terminates there after its 21-mile run west from the city of Sparta. The Great River State Trail begins at the trailhead and ventures north to the community of Marshland. The trailhead is well equipped with a large parking lot, restrooms, picnic tables, park benches, a drinking fountain, bike rack, and information kiosks.
This trailhead is officially named after the La Crosse River State Trail, and located off County Highway B in La Crosse. By car, it may be reached from Interstate Highway 90 by taking exit 5 south on Wisconsin State Highway 16. Drive 1.7 miles to County Highway B. Turn left (east) and go 0.3 mile to the trailhead entrance on the left (north).
Signs indicate access for the two different trails. The Great River State Trail circles upward to an overpass that bridges railroad tracks. The La Crosse River is visible from this overpass. The trail then descends from the bridge, crosses under Wisconsin State Highway 16, and enters a thick forest. A short distance afterwards, a paved spur trail to the left leads to River Valley Drive nearly a mile away. There are several signs at this intersection that have been vandalized with graffiti.
Further down the trail is an old iron truss bridge over the La Crosse River. The clear river is popular with kayakers. Nearly one mile down the path from the river crossing, the Great River State Trail leaves the city of La Crosse and passes under busy Interstate Highway 90.
Named after a Native American game, the city of La Crosse is a regional center in technology, medicine, education, manufacturing, and transportation. In 1805, Lieutenant Zebulon Pike’s expedition up the Mississippi River arrived in this area. Pike recorded the name as Prairie La Crosse. By the 1840s, the prairie was home to several fur trading posts. More development followed and in 1856, La Crosse incorporated as a city. The advent of the railroad lead to its continued population growth.
La Crosse was a hub of the lumber industry. Logs were rafted down the Black River to sawmills there. The city was also known for its brewing industry. G. Heileman Brewing Company operated from 1858 to 1996, producing the well-known lager Old Style. Today, La Crosse is also a regional education hub, with three colleges and universities: Western Technical College, Viterbo University, and University of Wisconsin-La Crosse.
When visiting downtown La Crosse, a stop at The Pearl Ice Cream Parlor & Confectionery is highly recommended. Patrons are treated to the experience of an authentic 1930’s-style ice cream parlor, with a confectionery store and coffee house next door. The Pearl is famous for their homemade ice cream and waffle cones. It’s right on Pearl Street in La Crosse’s historic downtown, and is so popular that lines often form on warm summer days and weekends.
Back on the Great River State Trail, a half mile after Interstate Highway 90 the path arrives at a busy intersection in Onalaska. The trail crosses Oak Forest Drive and Hilltopper Drive, then proceeds to 3rd Avenue. Cyclists continue north on 3rd Avenue for a half mile (7 blocks) in a marked bike lane until Main Street. Bike lanes are found on both sides of 3rd Avenue. At Main Street, turn left (west) and continue in the bike lane for 2 blocks before crossing Wisconsin State Highway 35 (2nd Avenue). Traffic lights at that intersection support safer crossings for cyclists. Due to the street cycling and road crossings, wearing high-visibility fluorescent clothing and using front and rear lights for visibility is recommended.
On the east side of the street is a waterfront park on Main Street known as the Great River Landing. The park sits high on a bluff overlooking the river valley and makes an excellent trailhead. It has a paved parking lot, bike racks, a self-service bicycle repair station, a self-registration box, a vending machine, park benches, and picnic tables. The building houses the trail headquarters and has a visitor center, restrooms and showers. Its back porch offers a spectacular view of the confluence of the Black River and Mississippi River.
Onalaska is located just north of La Crosse on a ridge above the Black River. It is called “The Sunfish Capital of the World.” The city dates to 1851 when lumbering was the main industry. The name Onalaska is supposedly found in a poem by the Scottish poet Thomas Campbell, The Pleasures of Hope, referring to an Aleutian island and fishing village.
Similar to La Crosse, Onalaska features many restaurants. About 3 miles from the Great River Landing and 1.5 miles off the trail itself is a pub named the Crooked Pint Ale House. This well-regarded Minnesota-based chain features a variety of beers, including some from La Crosse’s Pearl Street Brewery and Turtle Stack Brewery. They’re known for their range of “Juicy Lucy” hamburgers, a local specialty featuring a burger filled with hot, melted cheese.
From Great River Landing, the trail descends the ridge and heads north along the Black River. It travels along railroad tracks, not always noticeable as the path passes through a corridor of trees and bushes. Nearly 2 miles later, a spur trail leads to the right (east) up the bluff and signs indicate that food, drink, and cycle sales and service are available up the path. When this trail was ridden in June 2022, no such services seemed available. A parking lot off Wisconsin State Highway 35 at the end of the spur trail may be used as a trailhead.
At the spur trail junction, the railroad moves away from the path. A small parking area is found at the path’s intersection with County Highway Z. The trail between the county road and the community of Midway travels through Midway Railroad Prairie. The state natural area is home to more than 70 species of plants and flowers. The dry-mesic, sand prairie remnant was originally established to preserve the early spring pasque flower. Red-winged blackbirds, cardinals, American goldfinches and other birds may be seen dart across the trail in this section.
Map of trailheads and addresses along this section of the trail.
Midway has a modest trailhead with a parking lot, portable toilet, self-registration station, and picnic tables. By car, it can be accessed from Wisconsin State Highway 35 in Midway by turning west onto County Highway OT. Drive a half mile to County Highway ZN; the trailhead is on the corner of these two roads. Midway was originally called “Halfway Creek” after a nearby creek. When a railroad depot was built there, the name Midway was first used, but its name wasn’t officially changed until 2013.
Trail last ridden and documented in May, 2022.